Skin type is unchangeable. You are born with it, for better or for worse, until death do you part. Essentially your skin type is related to how much oil your skin produces. Skin types are dry, oily, combination, normal, acne prone and sensitive. Skin types dictate primarily what kind of cleanser and moisturizer you will use, while skin conditions (which we’ll touch on later) will dictate your serums and specialty products.

Dry Skin

If your skin is dry, it simply means your skin does not produce enough oil. If you never notice shine during the day, and instead feel like your skin looks wrinkled and feels tight, you probably have dry skin. This will never change, so you will always want to use products that will add back necessary oils such as cream cleansers and oil-based moisturizers. For example, essential fatty acids can help add back in those crucial lipids and diminish any wrinkly appearance and help with any sensitivity brought on by the lack of oil. Dry skin can be tricky, because it is often confused with dehydrated skin that is lacking water. The two are very different, and while I will go into dehydrated skin more later, it is important to distinguish the two. You cannot be both oily and dry in the same spot on your face, so if you notice shine during the day, but your skin feels tight, you are probably dehydrated not dry. Your skin is lacking water not oil.

Oily Skin

If 12:00pm rolls around and you are already an oil slick with the sun reflecting off your face, you have oily skin. For oily skin, you would want to use a clay based cleanser and moisturizers. Oily skin simply means that your skin produces more oil than “normal.” You may see shine on your face as early as late morning, or even sooner. You are addicted to oil blotting sheets and feel like most moisturizers are too heavy and make your skin even oiler. Using clay-based products will help absorb some of this excess. If you have oily skin, you would never want to use oil-based moisturizers. Humectants like hyaluronic and lactic acid would be great, and help bind water to the skin to ensure your skin cells maintained hydration, but no further oil should ever be added.

Combination Skin

Combination skin is more common and simply means that your skin produces more oil in some areas, and not as much in others. To clarify, if your t-zone (nose and forehead) gets oily in the early afternoon, but your cheeks are always dry, you have combination skin. Depending on the severity, you may have to use different moisturizers on different parts of your face, or you may be able to get away with one moisturizer all over while using oil blotting serums or creams on your oily areas. Sometimes silicone-based moisturizers are good for combination skin because it adds moisturizing ingredients to the skin without adding too much oil to areas that already have enough. Humectants are also a great option to bind moisture to the skin but not add any excess oil.

Acne Prone Skin

For acne prone skin, let me make something very clear. If you have acne prone skin, you constantly battle congestion in your skin. You always have breakouts, and clear skin is something you really have to work for. Occasional breakouts due to hormone fluctuations or not properly washing your face are entirely different and not due to the acne prone skin type. If you have battled acne your whole life, I’m sorry but you’ll need special attention. Often acne prone skin is dehydrated (lacking water, remember?) which makes matters even worse, so drink your water! Ensuring that the face is cleansed thoroughly with a salicylic cleanser or even an oil cleanser is very important. I know an oil cleanser sounds counterintuitive, but read this and you will understand. Humectant moisturizers to bind water and ensure hydration are also important so that the cells may operate at their highest level. You definitely do not want to add extra oil to this skin type when you moisturize, so make sure your moisturizers are not oil-based. Many hyaluronic acids are suspended in oil solutions, so make sure yours is not. Use of anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial products is important as well to deal with the constantly inflamed infection of the skin. Keep in mind that when dealing with acne prone skin, your skin care routine will be important and probably somewhat complicated. You will be dealing with congestion, excess oil production, and an inherently higher levels of bacterial present in your skin. My darlings, if this is you I feel for you, but there is hope.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is another skin type that many people think they have but don’t. If you have sensitive skin, your skin is always pink or red. You have a family history of rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis and it reacts to just about everything. If you don’t typically have pink, red, or uncomfortable skin but you have reactions to certain products, you have a skin condition called sensitized skin. I’ll tell you more about that later. Treatment for sensitive skin is very important because it only gets worse with age. You want to always use anti-inflammatory, calming ingredients. Silicone-based moisturizers with vitamins and soothing humectans will properly care for this skin type. Pay very close attention to what your skin is telling you so as to not make matters worse. Preventative treatment is key, as mistreatment of this skin type can lead to the appearance of veins and premature aging. Avoid any irritants and use a physical sunblock to protect your precious epidermis!

Normal Skin

Normal skin is exceedingly rare and chances are you don’t have it. However, if you are one of the lucky fraction of a percent to have this skin type, moisturize, protect from the sun, and drink plenty of water.

Skin Conditions

Now skin conditions are an entirely different beast than skin types. While you are born with your skin type, you are not born with a skin condition. Skin conditions are caused by external factors like not drinking enough water, using a product that you are allergic to, too much sun exposure or pollution. The main skin conditions are dehydrated, sensitized, acne, aging and pigmented. You will deal with these conditions with specialty products or changes in behavior.

Dehydrated Skin

Dehydrated skin throws many people for a loop. They think they have dry skin, so they use oil-based moisturizers or other products meant for people with dry skin, yet they don’t experience relief. The reason their skin continues to be flaky despite adding oil to it is that lack of oil is not the problem. Dehydrated skin is lacking water. You could have very oily skin, but if you don’t have enough water, it will still feel tight and look flaky. In order for the cells in the skin to function properly, they must have water. Having dehydrated skin can make skin type issues worse. For instance, if you have acne prone skin and you add dehydration to it, your cells’ ability to fight the constant infection of the acne is greatly diminished leaving you with more pimples. A good rule of thumb is that before you deal with any skin issues you may think you have, drink more water. After two weeks of mindfully drinking enough water, the problems you previously had may disappear.

Sensitized Skin

Sensitized skin is another skin condition that people mistake for their skin type. Sensitized skin can be caused by products that are too harsh for your skin, allergies, harsh weather conditions, pollution, hormones and medications. If you feel like your skin always reacts to certain products, it could be that they all have an ingredient in common that you are allergic to. Cold and dry environments can lead to sensitized skin as well, and pollution can wreak havoc on otherwise healthy skin cells. Changes in hormone levels can also cause sensitivity as well as many medications. Whenever I travel, my skin becomes sensitized and products that I use frequently at home can become irritating and uncomfortable. Chances are that you don’t have sensitive skin. It is far more likely that you have another skin type that has become sensitized because of an external factor.

Acne

Acne, the skin condition, is caused my numerous things. It could be caused by not washing your face properly, hormone fluctuations, using the wrong product for your skin type (treating dry skin instead of dehydrated) or changes in environment. The important thing to realize is that while you may have to bump up your skin regimen while you have breakouts, you do not, and should not be treating your skin like you are always breaking out. If you have occasional breakouts, keep your skin clean and try to not wear makeup. If you do wear makeup, remove it thoroughly by washing your face morning and night. Use anti-inflammatory ingredients and moisturize with humectants. Drink water! (Hmm, notice a theme?)

Aging and Pigmented Skin

Aging and pigmented skin are also skin conditions for which people everywhere seek the antidote. Aging skin cannot be reversed, but it can be prevented. Using sunscreen and products with retinol and glycolic acid are great ways of preventing and even minimizing appearance of fine lines. Have I told you to drink water yet? That helps as well in keeping those cells plump, producing collagen, and regenerating. Pigmented skin can be addressed with products but many are aggressive and are only available through a dermatologist. While pigmentation is difficult to deal with, it can be minimized, but remember that sunscreen is a great preventative measure.

So, we have covered the difference between skin type and skin conditions, and I even touched on how to deal with each one. Are you still with me? I’ll be going more into depth on each one of these issues in the future, but for now, hopefully you all have a better understanding of what’s going on on your face. Now, go get a glass of water!

Neiman Marcus Beauty

I ordered ONE thing from Neiman Marcus and now I get multiple daily emails enticing me to buy top designer clothes and shoes that I could only dream of affording. Sure, I could unsubscribe myself, but then what would I have to drool over on a daily basis?

Today, I opened my second NM email of the day to have my jaw drop and eyes fix on the magical words, “Tom Ford Beauty.” While I might not follow their directions to “pre-order the collection,” I may just have to make a trip to San Francisco to get my hands in some of the testers and see what products I can add to my kit. Excitement doesn’t seem to adequately describe it. It feels kind of like Christmas (or other favorite holiday) used to when you were little.

the best top coat ever made

Just as I was calming down over this news, I pulled up the Sephora site and noticed Nails Inc. products on the front page. How did I not already know this? Nails Inc. is a line of nail polishes and nail care products that I discovered while traveling in Scotland and England last year. I was blown away at the quality, shine, longevity, and fast drying times of their polishes. They had salons in department stores all over the UK, and I could never book an appointment because they were always full, so I bought some of their products and quickly became a fan. Yes, I prefer it to OPI, just don’t tell anyone, ok? Run, don’t walk. See if you can get there before their top coat dries (45-60 seconds).

courtesy of dermalogica

You have your brow wax appointment that you have been looking forward to for weeks. Your brows are out of control and taking over your face and you cannot wait to have gorgeous arches again. Your esthetician leads you into the waxing room and the sound of running water and woodwind instruments readies you for your treatment. “Are you using any exfoliants or acne medications?” she asks you. You reflect on the glycolic and retinol treatments you have been using at home, or the peel you at the dermatologist’s office two weeks ago and reply, “no.”

Your brows are cleaned and prepped and finally you feel the warm wax being spread across your skin. Once she smooths the muslin, pulls your skin taut, and quickly pulls the strip off, a layer of your skin comes off with it. Now, your brows are partly waxed and you are raw. You then come clean to your esthetician about your exfoliating history, and she is left feeling terrible and legally liable.

This is one example of how lying to your esthetician or dermatologist can go horribly wrong. When a professional asks a question, it is always to give the client the best service possible. Consultations not only help skin therapists make the proper decisions as to what products to use, it also keeps the client safe.

Another example of how lying can go wrong is if you lie about your skin care routine. Do you sleep in your makeup sometimes? Is that one coffee a day you claimed to drink really five? Your skin therapist is asking you about your vitamins, medications, hydration habits, etc so they may effectively diagnose your skin and treat it accordingly. If you aren’t truthful, they may prescribe products that are not addressing your skin’s needs. You are paying $150 for your facial, and the products she chooses, based on the information you gave her, are not going to be helping you. In fact, they might even hurt you. There are many reasons why your skin therapist or dermatologist asks the questions they ask, so make sure you come clean.

So next time you are going to the spa for your peel, wax, or massage, answer all questions honestly. No one will judge you if your idea of water is a Diet Coke or you hate the way sunscreen feels on your skin. Your luminous and non-irritated skin will thank you.

Wallpaper City Guides- a must for the chic traveler

I do a fair amount of travel, mostly internationally. Over the years, I have come to be quite the expert carry-on packer. Planes are notorious for dry, recirculated air, and with all the regulations about what you can take with you, it’s gotten much more difficult to keep your skin and body feeling good on long flights. Here is a checklist of items I have in my ziplock as well as others that help avoid the 3-1-1 rule entirely!

In the baggie:

Hand sanitizer- I don’t have a particular brand I love, I just make sure it meets the 3.4oz requirement. I usually can go through an entire bottle in one travel excursion.

Toothpaste- I particularly like Colgate Total for it’s germ-killing powers, and it does come in travel size.

Josie Maren 100% Argan Oil- This is a fantastic moisturizer that I can use on my face and body as needed, packed with antioxidants and brightening ingredients to combat the dull skin associated with travel. Click here for the perfect amount for a 2 week getaway.

Lollia Inspire Lotion- They come in tiny tubes and it smells so luxurious. When you’re cramped in a small space for hours on end, there’s nothing like a bit of luxury to lift your spirits. Click here for all the petite sizes you could ever want!

Contact solution- I typically just wear my glasses when I travel, but if I’m wearing my contacts, it’s a must. Sleeping in your contacts is definitely not good for your eyes.

My traveling beauty companions that beat the 3-1-1 rule:

Cleansing cloths- I like Ole Henriksen’s or Josie Maren’s. If you are especially dry, use Josie Maren. If you have a tendency to break out, use Ole Henriksen. I wash my face every 4-6 hours when I’m flying, and these make it so easy. I immediately follow with the Argan oil on my face to fight off airplane air. Ole Henriksen is available here, and Josie Maren is available here.

A fabulous sleep mask- I got mine from Mimi A La Mode. It blocks out all light and looks adorable. It probably sounds silly, but a pretty sleep mask is another little luxury that makes my flight better. Also, a sleep mask makes sleeping on planes easier, which is crucial to looking and feeling your best when you arrive at your destination.

Korres Jasmine Lip Butter- This moisture rich and luxuriously textured balm is solid, so you don’t need to put it in your ziplock. It has just a hint of light pink tint and smells like caramel.

iPad- No, it’s not a beauty product, but I can watch downloaded shows, read my downloaded issues of Elle and O Magazines, and keep myself entertained for hours. When I get to my destination, I have everything I need without the added weight of a laptop. Don’t forget a charger and earbuds.

Snacks- May be the most important part of your carry-on. Airline food can leave a lot to be desired, and sometimes, you get hungry or you want something that won’t weigh you down. That’s why I carry on a variety of healthy snacks like Muscle Milk bars for protein, nuts, cheese, and carrots. I also make sure to pack a tube of Nuun Hydrating Tabs. Water is sometimes hard for me to drink, so these great tasting, electrolyte packed tabs dissolve in water and keep me drinking. Staying hydrated on planes is really important because not only does the air dry you out, but also because it can reduce swelling and decrease the effects of jet lag. You can get Nuun tabs here.

With this list completes the packing list for my carry-on. While I usually carry-on another duffel that has a change of clothes, my medicines and jewelry, this one is smaller and can fit under the seat in front of me. This way I don’t have to keep getting up and disturbing other travelers when I need to get something out of it. By the time I arrive, I’m ready to face my adventure with a fresh face and rested body!

Back in February, on a trip to Hong Kong to visit my very dearest friend, Elle, I had the privilege of attending the opening of Aesop’s Sheung Wan store on Upper Station Street. I had been wanting to try their products for a couple years and was ecstatic that I was finally going to have the chance (hello? swag bags!). While I didn’t get a chance to sample anything other than the body balm (and a couple glasses of wine) at the event itself, I did get a chance to go back a couple days later and sample some of their line.

Everything in Aesop is a sensory experience created from natural oils and botanicals. The products are effective, yes, but there was something else about Aesop that really grabbed my attention. When I used them, and I mean each product, I inhaled a different vision. The geranium leaf took me to a relaxing spa in an exotic land while the Marrakech had me wandering through a richly colorful Moroccan spice market. I closed my eyes, breathed in each fragrance, and was able to imagine a different scene with every one.

I ended up walking away with a Parsley Seed Antioxidant Facial Toner, Rose hip Seed Lip Cream, Parsley Seen Antioxidant Serum, Ginger Flight Therapy, and Geranium Seed Body Balm. I have my eye on the Fabulous Face Oil and Anouk Oil Burner Blend for next time. If I had to recommend one product to walk away with, the Geranium Seed Body Balm wins the contest. It has a fresh, unisex fragrance, absorbs quickly, and softens like a dream. The Ginger flight therapy comes in a close second because of it’s ability to lull me to sleep when my brain doesn’t want to shut off.

Give Aesop a try and see where it takes you. http://www.aesop.com/

What I expected was a typical facial.  Someone rubs your face with a bunch of products, squeezes your blackheads out in a painful and possibly scarring way, and I leave wondering why I couldn’t have done that myself.

What I got was a pleasant surprise.  Reanna, like her studio, is adorable and welcoming.  Reanna’s facial was relaxing, smoothing, and an utter treat.  My skin felt the softest it has ever felt and I nearly fell asleep while she was massaging all sorts of wonderful feeling and smelling products on my skin.  She left out the extractions, which I appreciated.  I never thought the skin should be squeezed and popped.  With proper exfoliation and moisturizing, blackheads and pimples may heal themselves.

My favorite parts of the experience were the exfoliating ampule and the wonderfully fragrant moisturizer she used to finish the service.  The exfoliant tingled.  I love when I feel a product working!  The moisturizer absorbed in and made my skin feel as soft as a baby’s while the light fragrance stayed with me all day.  Her healing touch left me relaxed for hours afterward.

Reanna uses Dermalogica Professional products and customizes her facials to each individual.  To book with her at her J Street location, call (or text) 916-585-6383.  Have happy skin!

Reanna has moved to The Sterling Hotel! Go see her there, and enjoy her absolutely stunning new location!

emery's bathroom at any given time

Have you ever loved something so much that you are willing to spend all your money on it, try everything you can to make it the best it can be, even spend hours obsessing over it?  That’s how I am about my skin.  Though there have been times when I have abused it and neglected it, I always know how to get it back to looking its best.  My skin gets me a lot of compliments, and people always ask me what I use.  Since this is a site dedicated to me sharing what I know, I thought I would share my daily skin care regimen with all of you.

Now, we’re getting personal.  Remember all the times I have said that everyone is different, and some products will work for me, but might not for you?  I think that my skin care routine is amazing, but I still strongly recommend having those girls at Sephora make you a sample if you want to  try it.  Samples are great because you don’t spend money (and this regimen isn’t cheap) on products you might not like.  With that being said, here goes nothing.

Cleansers:  I have two. I use the Ole Henriksen Aloe Vera Deep Cleanser in the morning.  I find it refreshing and it does not dry out my skin.  I love the smell, and it has a wonderful texture.  At night, I use the Shu Uemura purifying oils to effectively remove all dirt, oil, and makeup.  I can’t rave enough about these oils, and unfortunately, they are not going to be sold in the United States pretty soon.  I’m hoping I can still get them online.

The In-Between: After cleansing in the morning, I apply Ole Henriksen Truth Serum Collagen Booster.  This gives my skin a boost of vitamin C, which offers protection from the sun, boosts collagen, and increases cell-turnover.  At night, I apply Ole Henriksen Invigorating Night Gel which exfoliates with AHA, moisturizes, and locks in vitamins and minerals.

Moisturizer: For my entire face, morning and night, I apply Ole Henriksen Sheer Transformation to my entire face and neck.  It fades discoloration and undoes any sun damage.  It also offers a lot of free-radical protection, which is a must. It does not leave my skin greasy or shiny, but gives adequate moisture to my combination skin.

For my eyes, I use Bobbi Brown Hydrating Eye Cream.  I just use the tiniest dab on my ring finger and dot it under my eyes in the morning, and all over the eye area at night.  I do not put this on my lids in the morning because it contributes to my eye shadow creasing.

Protect: In the morning, I slather a good amount of Peter Thomas Roth Uber Dry Sunscreen SPF 30 on my face and neck.  I love that I never feel like I am wearing sunscreen, because I HATE the way sunscreen usually feels.  This sunscreen is the only daily, facial sunscreen I will ever use.  I have found my one true sunscreen love.

Miscellaneous: Yes, there is one other thing.  I take a HUGE amount of fish oil.  In just a few weeks, my skin has improved dramatically.  Discoloration is decreasing, I have not a single pimple of which to speak, and the texture is getting smoother by the day.  I use FlameOut fish oil from Biotest.  You can purchase it here.  It’s formulated for men, but I use it anyway.  There is also Carlson’s fish oil which you can purchase as an oil or in pill form.  Carlson’s can be purchased wholesale here.  The reason I recommend these two brands is because of their concentration of omega-3 and also because they are so pure.  It is important to make sure your fish oil supplement is free of mercury and other harmful chemicals and additives.

So there you have it.  My entire skin care regimen, and my cluttered bathroom sink for all to see.   All of the products I mentioned can be purchased at Sephora at either Arden Fair or the Galleria in Roseville, and the fish oil at the sites above.  Oh, and one more thing, I only wear foundation when I have to.  If I’m not going to work or going out, I don’t typically wear anything but mascara, and voila! Clear skin!

Your curls, that is.  I have seen numerous girls walking around Sacramento, attempting to achieve that gorgeous Hollywood wave in their hair, only to look overly styled, and prom ready.  It hurts my heart to see hair that looks like its been curled, rather than looking effortlessly wavy and touchable.  The idea behind the Hollywood wave is to look tousled and natural, not like you spent an hour and a half curling your hair.  So, hopefully, after this post, I’ll see more of the picture above, and less of the picture below.  Sorry Beyonce!

The look on Beyonce above is dated and contrived.  It neither looks natural or touchable, but could be fixed with one very simple step.  However, before I divulge the secret, lets talk about the steps that come before it.

You have already shampooed and conditioned your hair with a frizz reducing shampoo and conditioner, and you are ready to blow dry.  I would suggest using a styling product with condition and a little hold, like Redken Velvet Gelatine or Bumble and Bumble Styling Lotion.  Using a round brush, take hair in small secions, working from the bottom of your head up, and take hair around the round brush pulling forward, but curling away from the face.  If using a round brush intimidates you, then blow your hair straight, and let the curling iron do all the work.

Once you have gotten your hair completely dry, and your curling iron is heated (I suggest using a 1.5-2″ barrel) take one inch sections of hair again, pulling sections forward while curling away from the face until all of your hair is curled.  When I do this on clients, I spray each section with Bumble and Bumble Classic Hairspray as I go to help set the curl in place.  After the whole head has been curled, let it cool for about 5-10 minutes if you have the time.  Now, your hair probably looks like Beyonce’s does in the picture above.  This is where a lot of women stop, but if you want your hair to look sexy and touchably soft, the most important step comes next.

Run you fingers through your hair, raking through each section to break up the curls.  Shake it out, shake your head, then smooth out any pieces that seem out of place.  This might seem counterintuitive, but then your hair will look like this:

Finish the look with a little more hairspray.  The Bumble and Bumble Classic Hairspray is my favorite for this because it is a soft, matte hold that won’t give your hair that hairspray lacquer look that is so hideous.  Then, follow with a small amount of shine spray on the ends.  Voila! You now have soft, sexy, natural looking waves in your hair and a night of free drinks coming your way!

Remember, this look takes practice, so don’t give up if you don’t get it right away.  Try it for the first couple times when you don’t have plans and when time is not an issue.  Practice makes perfect!

First of all, leave the cuticle clipping to the professionals.  Over-clipping can make matters worse.  Concentrate, instead on moisturizing.  Virgin coconut oil can be found at almost any grocery store, and is sold in a jar in solid form.  Despite its solid form, it is still soft enough to easily transfer into smaller, purse-size containers for easy on-the-go use, but be careful as it turns to liquid  soon after room temperature.  Just dab a small amount of coconut oil on each cuticle and massage in as many times a day as you think about it.  Your cuticles will be gorgeous in no time.

There are tons of benefits to coconut oil, and it can be used all over the body to provide antioxidant-rich, anti-aging moisture.  You can combine it with sugar to make a scrub for the shower, or massage it in your scalp to prevent dandruff and moisturize your hair.  It makes a great shaving oil, eye makeup remover, heel softener, and lip balm.  Once you start using it, you’ll get addicted to all the different uses it can have.  You can even use it on your face as a night moisturizer that has even been connected with helping clear acne and acne scars.

So, now you know my favorite cuticle cure, and all the other wonderful things coconut oil can do.  Now get to the Nugget or Whole Foods and pick yourself up a jar! Quick update: You’ll want to get Extra Virgin Cold Pressed, so that the oil is in the most natural state possible.  Enjoy, it smells incredible!