the emery board

photo: covergirl.com

In a recent attempt to further reign in expenses, I decided to take a risk on some drug store makeup. I don’t typically buy it because I remember growing up using CoverGirl and Revlon, and then seeing the vast difference in quality when I used the department store brands when I got older. However, since it’s been quite some time since those drug store makeup days, I thought the products had plenty of time to improve.

While walking through Rite-Aid last week, I stumbled upon a product that looked pretty cool. I had seen the ad on TV with Sofia Vergara (who I adore) and thought it looked pretty neat. It was the CoverGirl Blast Flipstick. On one side, there is an overall lip color, and on the other, there is another color meant to enhance the other. THIS was going to be my reentry into drug store cosmetics! Once again, because I love Sofia Vergara, I got the same color she was wearing in the ad, Stunner. It’s a sultry red on one side, and a metallic gold on the other.

Lipsticks have always been tricky for me. They always feather on me, regardless of how many different tricks I use to prevent it. Primer, powder, liner, concealer liner around my lips, you name it, I’ve tried it. I always end up with lipstick in the fine lines around my mouth. I expected this to be no different.

I was so incredibly wrong. While I’m not a huge fan of the texture, this did not feather. Not one tiny bit. I was also really impressed with the staying power. While it does still come off on my coffee cup and fork, there is still a lot of color left after eating and drinking. Enough to skip touching up. I love the dimension you can achieve, and I love that you can create a different look and color every time you use it! I have to say, I’m giving CoverGirl a big thumbs up on this one. My skepticism of drug store makeup (beyond mascara) is starting to melt away. Bravo, CoverGirl, I can’t wait to try more colors!

Skin Type. It seems so simple, yet many people are still treating a skin type they don’t have. The unknown factor being that there are skin types, but there are also skin conditions. Proper understanding of skin types and skin conditions will allow you to not only better understand your skin, but also take care of it more effectively.

Skin type is unchangeable. You are born with it, for better or for worse, until death do you part. Essentially your skin type is related to how much oil your skin produces. Skin types are dry, oily, combination, normal, acne prone and sensitive. Skin types dictate primarily what kind of cleanser and moisturizer you will use, while skin conditions (which we’ll touch on later) will dictate your serums and specialty products.

Dry Skin

If your skin is dry, it simply means your skin does not produce enough oil. If you never notice shine during the day, and instead feel like your skin looks wrinkled and feels tight, you probably have dry skin. This will never change, so you will always want to use products that will add back necessary oils such as cream cleansers and oil-based moisturizers. For example, essential fatty acids can help add back in those crucial lipids and diminish any wrinkly appearance and help with any sensitivity brought on by the lack of oil. Dry skin can be tricky, because it is often confused with dehydrated skin that is lacking water. The two are very different, and while I will go into dehydrated skin more later, it is important to distinguish the two. You cannot be both oily and dry in the same spot on your face, so if you notice shine during the day, but your skin feels tight, you are probably dehydrated not dry. Your skin is lacking water not oil.

Oily Skin

If 12:00pm rolls around and you are already an oil slick with the sun reflecting off your face, you have oily skin. For oily skin, you would want to use a clay based cleanser and moisturizers. Oily skin simply means that your skin produces more oil than “normal.” You may see shine on your face as early as late morning, or even sooner. You are addicted to oil blotting sheets and feel like most moisturizers are too heavy and make your skin even oiler. Using clay-based products will help absorb some of this excess. If you have oily skin, you would never want to use oil-based moisturizers. Humectants like hyaluronic and lactic acid would be great, and help bind water to the skin to ensure your skin cells maintained hydration, but no further oil should ever be added.

Combination Skin

Combination skin is more common and simply means that your skin produces more oil in some areas, and not as much in others. To clarify, if your t-zone (nose and forehead) gets oily in the early afternoon, but your cheeks are always dry, you have combination skin. Depending on the severity, you may have to use different moisturizers on different parts of your face, or you may be able to get away with one moisturizer all over while using oil blotting serums or creams on your oily areas. Sometimes silicone-based moisturizers are good for combination skin because it adds moisturizing ingredients to the skin without adding too much oil to areas that already have enough. Humectants are also a great option to bind moisture to the skin but not add any excess oil.

Acne Prone Skin

For acne prone skin, let me make something very clear. If you have acne prone skin, you constantly battle congestion in your skin. You always have breakouts, and clear skin is something you really have to work for. Occasional breakouts due to hormone fluctuations or not properly washing your face are entirely different and not due to the acne prone skin type. If you have battled acne your whole life, I’m sorry but you’ll need special attention. Often acne prone skin is dehydrated (lacking water, remember?) which makes matters even worse, so drink your water! Ensuring that the face is cleansed thoroughly with a salicylic cleanser or even an oil cleanser is very important. I know an oil cleanser sounds counterintuitive, but read this and you will understand. Humectant moisturizers to bind water and ensure hydration are also important so that the cells may operate at their highest level. You definitely do not want to add extra oil to this skin type when you moisturize, so make sure your moisturizers are not oil-based. Many hyaluronic acids are suspended in oil solutions, so make sure yours is not. Use of anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial products is important as well to deal with the constantly inflamed infection of the skin. Keep in mind that when dealing with acne prone skin, your skin care routine will be important and probably somewhat complicated. You will be dealing with congestion, excess oil production, and an inherently higher levels of bacterial present in your skin. My darlings, if this is you I feel for you, but there is hope.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is another skin type that many people think they have but don’t. If you have sensitive skin, your skin is always pink or red. You have a family history of rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis and it reacts to just about everything. If you don’t typically have pink, red, or uncomfortable skin but you have reactions to certain products, you have a skin condition called sensitized skin. I’ll tell you more about that later. Treatment for sensitive skin is very important because it only gets worse with age. You want to always use anti-inflammatory, calming ingredients. Silicone-based moisturizers with vitamins and soothing humectans will properly care for this skin type. Pay very close attention to what your skin is telling you so as to not make matters worse. Preventative treatment is key, as mistreatment of this skin type can lead to the appearance of veins and premature aging. Avoid any irritants and use a physical sunblock to protect your precious epidermis!

Normal Skin

Normal skin is exceedingly rare and chances are you don’t have it. However, if you are one of the lucky fraction of a percent to have this skin type, moisturize, protect from the sun, and drink plenty of water.

Skin Conditions

Now skin conditions are an entirely different beast than skin types. While you are born with your skin type, you are not born with a skin condition. Skin conditions are caused by external factors like not drinking enough water, using a product that you are allergic to, too much sun exposure or pollution. The main skin conditions are dehydrated, sensitized, acne, aging and pigmented. You will deal with these conditions with specialty products or changes in behavior.

Dehydrated Skin

Dehydrated skin throws many people for a loop. They think they have dry skin, so they use oil-based moisturizers or other products meant for people with dry skin, yet they don’t experience relief. The reason their skin continues to be flaky despite adding oil to it is that lack of oil is not the problem. Dehydrated skin is lacking water. You could have very oily skin, but if you don’t have enough water, it will still feel tight and look flaky. In order for the cells in the skin to function properly, they must have water. Having dehydrated skin can make skin type issues worse. For instance, if you have acne prone skin and you add dehydration to it, your cells’ ability to fight the constant infection of the acne is greatly diminished leaving you with more pimples. A good rule of thumb is that before you deal with any skin issues you may think you have, drink more water. After two weeks of mindfully drinking enough water, the problems you previously had may disappear.

Sensitized Skin

Sensitized skin is another skin condition that people mistake for their skin type. Sensitized skin can be caused by products that are too harsh for your skin, allergies, harsh weather conditions, pollution, hormones and medications. If you feel like your skin always reacts to certain products, it could be that they all have an ingredient in common that you are allergic to. Cold and dry environments can lead to sensitized skin as well, and pollution can wreak havoc on otherwise healthy skin cells. Changes in hormone levels can also cause sensitivity as well as many medications. Whenever I travel, my skin becomes sensitized and products that I use frequently at home can become irritating and uncomfortable. Chances are that you don’t have sensitive skin. It is far more likely that you have another skin type that has become sensitized because of an external factor.

Acne

Acne, the skin condition, is caused my numerous things. It could be caused by not washing your face properly, hormone fluctuations, using the wrong product for your skin type (treating dry skin instead of dehydrated) or changes in environment. The important thing to realize is that while you may have to bump up your skin regimen while you have breakouts, you do not, and should not be treating your skin like you are always breaking out. If you have occasional breakouts, keep your skin clean and try to not wear makeup. If you do wear makeup, remove it thoroughly by washing your face morning and night. Use anti-inflammatory ingredients and moisturize with humectants. Drink water! (Hmm, notice a theme?)

Aging and Pigmented Skin

Aging and pigmented skin are also skin conditions for which people everywhere seek the antidote. Aging skin cannot be reversed, but it can be prevented. Using sunscreen and products with retinol and glycolic acid are great ways of preventing and even minimizing appearance of fine lines. Have I told you to drink water yet? That helps as well in keeping those cells plump, producing collagen, and regenerating. Pigmented skin can be addressed with products but many are aggressive and are only available through a dermatologist. While pigmentation is difficult to deal with, it can be minimized, but remember that sunscreen is a great preventative measure.

So, we have covered the difference between skin type and skin conditions, and I even touched on how to deal with each one. Are you still with me? I’ll be going more into depth on each one of these issues in the future, but for now, hopefully you all have a better understanding of what’s going on on your face. Now, go get a glass of water!

Neiman Marcus Beauty

I ordered ONE thing from Neiman Marcus and now I get multiple daily emails enticing me to buy top designer clothes and shoes that I could only dream of affording. Sure, I could unsubscribe myself, but then what would I have to drool over on a daily basis?

Today, I opened my second NM email of the day to have my jaw drop and eyes fix on the magical words, “Tom Ford Beauty.” While I might not follow their directions to “pre-order the collection,” I may just have to make a trip to San Francisco to get my hands in some of the testers and see what products I can add to my kit. Excitement doesn’t seem to adequately describe it. It feels kind of like Christmas (or other favorite holiday) used to when you were little.

the best top coat ever made

Just as I was calming down over this news, I pulled up the Sephora site and noticed Nails Inc. products on the front page. How did I not already know this? Nails Inc. is a line of nail polishes and nail care products that I discovered while traveling in Scotland and England last year. I was blown away at the quality, shine, longevity, and fast drying times of their polishes. They had salons in department stores all over the UK, and I could never book an appointment because they were always full, so I bought some of their products and quickly became a fan. Yes, I prefer it to OPI, just don’t tell anyone, ok? Run, don’t walk. See if you can get there before their top coat dries (45-60 seconds).

courtesy of dermalogica

You have your brow wax appointment that you have been looking forward to for weeks. Your brows are out of control and taking over your face and you cannot wait to have gorgeous arches again. Your esthetician leads you into the waxing room and the sound of running water and woodwind instruments readies you for your treatment. “Are you using any exfoliants or acne medications?” she asks you. You reflect on the glycolic and retinol treatments you have been using at home, or the peel you at the dermatologist’s office two weeks ago and reply, “no.”

Your brows are cleaned and prepped and finally you feel the warm wax being spread across your skin. Once she smooths the muslin, pulls your skin taut, and quickly pulls the strip off, a layer of your skin comes off with it. Now, your brows are partly waxed and you are raw. You then come clean to your esthetician about your exfoliating history, and she is left feeling terrible and legally liable.

This is one example of how lying to your esthetician or dermatologist can go horribly wrong. When a professional asks a question, it is always to give the client the best service possible. Consultations not only help skin therapists make the proper decisions as to what products to use, it also keeps the client safe.

Another example of how lying can go wrong is if you lie about your skin care routine. Do you sleep in your makeup sometimes? Is that one coffee a day you claimed to drink really five? Your skin therapist is asking you about your vitamins, medications, hydration habits, etc so they may effectively diagnose your skin and treat it accordingly. If you aren’t truthful, they may prescribe products that are not addressing your skin’s needs. You are paying $150 for your facial, and the products she chooses, based on the information you gave her, are not going to be helping you. In fact, they might even hurt you. There are many reasons why your skin therapist or dermatologist asks the questions they ask, so make sure you come clean.

So next time you are going to the spa for your peel, wax, or massage, answer all questions honestly. No one will judge you if your idea of water is a Diet Coke or you hate the way sunscreen feels on your skin. Your luminous and non-irritated skin will thank you.

Yesterday, I did something I rarely do.  Yes, I know, you would think that I would get facials all the time, but it is just something I typically skimp on.  However, my friend, and extremely talented hairstylist Amithyst, owner of Amithyst Salon, told me I had to see Reanna for a facial.  Since I am attending the Transformations Gala at the Ritz this weekend, and must look my absolute best, I figured it would be a great time to make my skin glow.

What I expected was a typical facial.  Someone rubs your face with a bunch of products, squeezes your blackheads out in a painful and possibly scarring way, and I leave wondering why I couldn’t have done that myself.

What I got was a pleasant surprise.  Reanna, like her studio, is adorable and welcoming.  Reanna’s facial was relaxing, smoothing, and an utter treat.  My skin felt the softest it has ever felt and I nearly fell asleep while she was massaging all sorts of wonderful feeling and smelling products on my skin.  She left out the extractions, which I appreciated.  I never thought the skin should be squeezed and popped.  With proper exfoliation and moisturizing, blackheads and pimples may heal themselves.

My favorite parts of the experience were the exfoliating ampule and the wonderfully fragrant moisturizer she used to finish the service.  The exfoliant tingled.  I love when I feel a product working!  The moisturizer absorbed in and made my skin feel as soft as a baby’s while the light fragrance stayed with me all day.  Her healing touch left me relaxed for hours afterward.

Reanna uses Dermalogica Professional products and customizes her facials to each individual.  To book with her at her J Street location, call (or text) 916-585-6383.  Have happy skin!

Reanna has moved to The Sterling Hotel! Go see her there, and enjoy her absolutely stunning new location!

Help The Emery Board get 500 fans on Facebook by April 20, and I’ll give away $50 to Sephora to one of the fans! Just go to Facebook and become a fan of The Emery Board! Its the first link under my blogroll.

Happy Sunday, Emery Boarders.  Today, we’re going to take a step away from the positive and take a moment to rant.  I recently read a post that a dear friend and fellow beauty industry insider wrote in response to an experience with an unpleasant client and was inspired to repost it.  Then, I thought that after I posted it, I would also rant about something that has been really bugging me.  So, without further ado, here is her post:

“what’s more important to you, hair or health? believe it or not some people suffer with the internal battle of their hair meaning more to them than their own well being. this is a bit ridiculous and a tiny bit serious… but it’s true. thus being said, if you are either of these types, please… treat your hairdresser with the same respect that you would with your Doc. if we are running 10 measly minutes behind (for reasons unknown to you) give us a break. remember, at a doctor’s office you are probably going to be waiting 15-45 mins for a “ROUTINE” check-up, and i ‘ll betcha that you’d never give the Doc heck for running late or just flat out triple booking you with the rest of the general public. hairdressing may be considered a part of the “service”, retail, artistic/creative, what-have -you, industry… but, it is also extremely different than any of these said industries. a profession all of it’s own, that has a billion options within it. we take pride in our work, we are privileged to have you as a patron just as you are privileged to patronize our place of work. so, please take this into consideration the next time you try to give your hairdresser verbal havoc. this is a very intense, thought-out gift we are giving, even if it seems like it’s a no-brainer/2nd nature process. there is A LOT of behind the scenes work going on to maintain YOUR happiness. one last thing: GIVE YOUR LOCAL BARISTA A BREAK, AS WELL!!!” -anonymous

To add to this, I think its important to be nice to people in general.  We’re not perfect, we’re human, and when it feels so good to have someone forgive us of our imperfections, so too does it feel good to forgive others of theirs.

Now for my rant.  Ke$ha, please stop looking like this.

You are a beautiful young woman, and you are doing yourself a terrible disservice.

Thank you for reading, and happy Sunday.  Back to positivity tomorrow.

You have each won $25 to Sephora courtesy of The Emery Board! Merry Christmas! I’ll be contacting you this week to get you your cards! Thanks for reading and to all who entered! Emery loves her beauties!

Here’s the deal Emery Boarders! Get your friends to come to The Emery Board and comment on this post with your name as well as theirs as the body (make sure you leave me your email so I can contact you!).  On Christmas day, I’ll choose a name at random and you AND your friend will each get $25 to Sephora! Start telling your friends, the more comments with your name, the better your chances are of winning! Good luck beauties, and Merry Christmas!