the emery board

Hair thinning is a scary reality for men and women alike. While many live in a state of denial until their thinning or baldness is irreversible, recognizing the problem early is your best defense against further thinning. While thinning hair is in large part due to genetics, it is also preventable in many cases. To summarize the process in short, the genetic cause of thinning in 95% of people is the presence of the hormone DHT (Dihydrotestosterone). DHT comes from the hormone testosterone coming into contact with an enzyme in the hair follicle (Type II 5-alpha reductase), which then shrinks the follicle and thickens the protective membrane of the scalp. These two actions combined eventually grow thinner hair as well as make it harder for the hair to grow out of the scalp. Eventually, you have a hole where your thick, lustrous hair used to be. Genetics predetermines the level of DHT present in your scalp, but you can do something about it.

The process of thinning is rather complicated, but preventing it and reversing it doesn’t have to be. Reducing the amount of DHT in the scalp is rather simple. There are several products on the market that topically reduce the amount of DHT present in the scalp as well as solutions that can be ingested.

Nioxin, Bosley, and Rogaine all have products aimed at either preventing thinning, reversing it, or both. Nioxin and Bosleys systems of shampoos, conditioners and leave-in treatments claim to moisturize and condition hair while reducing DHT and removing follicle-clogging residue on the scalp. While many people have experienced success with these products, it is important to note a few things about them. First, they contain proteins intended to volumize hair strands making hair appear thicker. While these products can effectively prevent further thinning, it is unclear whether they are able to reverse it. While lots of satisfied customers say they have experienced a reversal of thinning, one should have realistic expectations of these systems, and realize that thicker feeling hair may be an illusion. It is also important to use all three products in the system to experience full results.

Rogaine claims to reinvigorate shrunken hair follicles and was discovered to do so by accident. Rogaine is FDA approved to regrow hair, but it won’t do it overnight. Results can take a while to show up, and the results won’t last forever. While Rogaine will lengthen the life of the follicle, it won’t make it immortal. Rogaine also will not work on an area that is completely bald, it will only work on thinning hair. Rogaine is applied to a clean scalp, so combining it with a DHT-reducing therapy like Nioxin or Bosley seems to be a great method of coming at thinning from every topical angle.

There are also many herbs that can block DHT in the body. Green tea, saw palmetto, and pumpkin seed may all help reduce DHT in the body. More information on how these herbs can block DHT can be found on LIVESTRONG. Using herbal remedies in conjunction with any topical treatment would be great if you are ready to throw the kitchen sink at your thinning without using harsh prescription medications.

Propecia blocks the formation of DHT in the scalp, and is available by prescription to adult men only. While it has been proven effective, it does have a number of side effects, many of which are related to libido and sexual performance, but there are also some concerns over it’s possible link to prostate cancer. If other methods of preventing and reversing hair loss have failed, and you are male, Propecia may be a good option for you. Doing proper research on side effects and having an honest and thorough talk with your doctor about what has and hasn’t worked for you would be a good first step. There is a lot of useful information on Propecia on WebMD and MedicineNet.

If you feel like you are experiencing thinning, you don’t have to be scared. The last 5% of reasons for hair loss include medications, stress, diet, and even pulling it out. Make sure you first aren’t taking anything that has hair loss as a side effect. Reduce your stress by medicating, doing yoga, exercising and eating right. Treat yourself well. There is nothing to be embarrassed about, and the solutions named above are, for the most part, very simple to add to your routine. If for any reason you feel you need more information, or want an anonymous way to reach out and talk about your concerns about hair thinning, please feel free to “Ask Emery.”

photo courtesy of phyto.com

This week, a hairstylist friend of mine asked me my recommendations for truly natural hair care. Sure, there are products claiming to be natural all over, even certified organic and “green” products that many people rave over. However, when I hear that someone has a concern about ingredients in their beauty products, I think it is important to know a few things. 

First, there is no regulation on the use of the word “natural” in labeling. If you think about it, anything can be considered natural, as long as at some point, it came from a natural source (like the earth!). So when you think natural, that could mean a very different thing to the manufacturer of the products on your counter and in your shower.

Second, many products are vegan and organic, but can still contain parabens, phthalates, synthetic dyes and other ingredients that people are seeking to avoid. Even vaseline is made with petrochemicals, and many people don’t want that in their products. Companies like Pureology are vegan and certified green by Global Green, but some (not all) of their products still contain parabens. 

While the verdict is still out on how harmful some of these chemicals may be, and research results are still inconclusive on many, it is okay if you would rather err on the side of caution. While natural hair care is pretty easy to find, the downside to many natural hair care products is that they leave the hair feeling stiff, straw-like, and dry. This is what lead my stylist friend to ask me what I thought about “natural” hair care products. She told me that every time a client came to her having used natural brands that they may have purchased at a coop or Whole Foods, their hair felt awful. Well, I just can’t let that go on!

When I thought of natural products, I thought of the products on which I had received extensive education though out my career. Pureology and Davines were the first that came to mind. While both have natural botanicals and high quality ingredients, when I checked the labels on the products in my cabinet, they had parabens. For people seeking natural hair care, that is a no-no. Pureology has several certifications guaranteeing they are vegan, organic, and green, but if you don’t want parabens in your products, you’re going to have to avoid it. Davines, while they don’t have all of the certifications of Pureology, they do heavily market their natural and pure roots. The bottle of Davines in my shower does contain those pesky parabens that many people try to avoid.

Now if you are reading this and wondering what on earth a paraben is, and why people want to avoid it, allow me to explain. Parabens are preservatives that because of their effectiveness and their affordability, are found in just about everything from shampoo to food products. However, many women have come to be cautious of their presence in products and food because they have been found in very low concentrations in breast cancer tumors. Now before you go throw out all of the bottles in your bathroom, research has been inconclusive so far as to why and how the parabens got into the tumors. There is also no direct link found between the use of parabens and the presence of cancer. In other words, it has not been shown to cause cancer. However, understandably, many women would prefer to not expose themselves to these chemicals at all. 

So what are you to do if you don’t want all of these potentially harmful products in your shampoo and conditioner? After doing some serious research, I found two brands that manufacture products without many of these chemicals, including parabens.

Alterna, made without parabens, sulfates (which many avoid on color-treated hair) and other scary chemicals boasts silky hair and even sunscreens. Some of their products do contain caviar extract, which means they are not vegan, but if you simply want a natural product that works well, Alterna is a great choice. Many of their products are certified organic and green as well, and in my experience with the brand, leave hair feeling silky and easy to manage.

Phyto is another brand that can appeal to even the vegans of the crowd. They proudly proclaim that there are over 700 plants in their products, and that they produced environmentally-responsible and sustainable products long before it became a trend. They also formulate without parabens, petrochemicals, sulfates, synthetic fragrances or dyes, and make concentrated formulas so less product can be used to achieve desired results. After using it, my hair always felt well nourished and very easy to style. I purchased their Phytokeratine shampoo years ago and absolutely loved it. At the time, I did not realize they were at the forefront of eco-friendly, natural, and sustainable hair and skin care products. Even their packaging is recycled and recyclable. No stiff, unmanageable hair, and no added waste in the landfill? Success!

Straw-like, brittle hair no longer has to be synonymous with natural hair care! Hopefully now with either Alterna or Phyto, my friend’s clients may now have the pure products they desire without having to sacrifice silky, soft, beautiful hair!

Today is a sad day for the whole beauty industry. Rest in peace, dear Vidal Sassoon. Thank you for all you did.

I’ve been using Nars eyeshadow primer for a long time. With lids like mine, it’s a necessity. Eyeliner runs amok, shadow migrates to creases, and by the end of the day, I look like a hot mess. I realize we all have unrealistic expectations of our makeup. Obviously, if you want to look perfect all day, you have to bring a little cosmetic bag with you for touchups throughout the day. Celebrities have makeup artists, and photo shoots are nowhere near reality. However, if you’re like me, and you have a job where taking a minute to touchup your makeup is sometimes out of the question, having some insurance against makeup meltdown is a must!

With my engagement photos approaching (yes, Emery’s getting married!), and a tube of Nars that didn’t make it through a makeup bag fall, I was in desperate need of an eyeshadow primer that would give me some staying power. What a perfect opportunity for a product head-to-head! I dragged the future Mr. Emery to Sephora and picked up some best-sellers: Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, Nars Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base, and Stila Prime Pot. As a control, I used the same MAC gel eyeliner and Bobbi Brown eyeshadows with each primer.

Sometimes I put too much faith in other peoples’ reviews. I had heard that Urban Decay, despite their younger target market, was one of the best eyeshadow primers out there. There is some serious hype out there about the Urban Decay, and I figured, if it’s got five stars on Sephora.com, maybe there’s something to it. The morning of my engagement photos, I slicked on a small amount of the Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion. I liked the texture, it was creamy and slid on easily. Applying liner and shadow over it was a breeze. Then, on our drive to Half Moon Bay, my eyes started watering. Nars makes my eyes water a bit, so I was expecting this might be the case, but I wasn’t expecting this amount of watering. By the time we got to our shooting location, my shadow and liner was gone on the outer half of my eye, and the liner was a greasy mess on inner corner (unrelated to the watering). Luckily, I had brought my makeup with me and was able to salvage my smoky eye, but the Urban Decay let me down. For someone who does not have sensitive eyes, perhaps this formula would work. The behavior of my gel eyeliner, even after the watering had subsided, would make me a bit skeptical about that though. After doing a bit of research, I found that Urban Decay has changed their packaging, and there is some suspicion that the formula may have changed with it. Many claim it no longer works the same magic it once did. I don’t like writing negative reviews, but I simply cannot endorse this primer. Even Mr. Emery quipped, “Urban Decay? Well, they got the decay right!”

On a more positive note, Nars Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base has had its place in my cosmetic bag for years now. While it does make my eyes water a bit (apparently, I have sensitive eyes), my shadow and liner usually only fades minimally as a result. Once the watering subsides, though, my shadow stays pretty well. At the very end of a long day, some eyeliner may migrate, but overall, its a pretty good primer. I’d say especially if you don’t have sensitive eyes, this would be a great option for you. It applies easily, and a little goes a very long way. If you apply too much, it can work against you and make shadow more difficult to apply and cause creasing later. So just make sure you only use a little. I usually use the applicator to apply a small amount to my ring fingers and gently blend it into my lids. I wait for it to dry, and then apply my eye makeup as usual. When it does make my eyes water, it’s always the outer corners, so I may have to blend my eyeliner a bit to touch up while my eyes adjust to the product.

Now, I’ve saved the best for last. The product that is going to bump the Nars right out of my makeup bag: Stila Prime Pot. If the Nars didn’t make my eyes water, it would be a tie, but the Stila does not irritate my eyes in the least. Again, you don’t need much. I tapped the product with my ring finger and applied a small amount to my lids. If I need more, I can always build up, but it’s easier to add more product than take it away. Once my makeup was done, it stayed put all day. I even tested it through an intense workout, and even my dripping sweat was no match! My eyeshadow and liner was still exactly where I had put it. Any minor migration was easily fixed with the tip of my finger. Stila Prime Pot is great for sensitive eyes, and when used properly, won’t disappoint. An added bonus is that it comes in two colors, and if you’re not into wearing makeup one day, worn alone, it evens out skin tone and adds a bit of polish to your look. Big fan! I used the color Taffy, which compliments lighter skin tones well.

After trying all three eyeshadow primers, I’ll be returning the Nars and Urban Decay. If I could track down the old version of the Urban Decay, I’d love to give it a try. I just can’t believe that a product with all that hype could really let me down so much. If you don’t have trouble with your eyes watering when wearing makeup, and you would prefer a product that does not have any pigment in it, go with the Nars. Otherwise, the Stila Prime Pot is awesome. All products can be found at Sephora.

someecards.com

This probably sounds like a completely ridiculous post. You’ve been washing your face forever. Lather, rinse, it isn’t brain surgery. However, to get the best results from your cleanser, there are some methods that can help make sure your skin is really clean and looking its best.

First, make sure your skin is adequately wet, with luke warm water. If the water is too cool, it won’t open your pores, and if it’s too hot, you’ll burn your skin and shock it.

Dispense a SMALL amount of cleanser into your palm. We don’t need a whole lot of cleanser, usually somewhere between a dime and a quarter. Depending on what your manufacturer’s instructions are, only use that amount of product. Using more does not make your skin cleaner, and will make it harder to rinse off. You do not want soap residue left on your face, so decrease the amount you are using if you have a tendency to overload.

Mix enough water with your cleanser to create large bubbles in your suds. Wet hands do not provide enough water, you must add water in your palms to get the right kind of lather. You shouldn’t feel your lather is too thick, it should be a light, easily spreadable lather. If you don’t adequately lather your cleanser, you are not completely activating the ingredients, nor are you fully allowing the dirt to be pulled away from the skin. Adding enough water also prevents over drying due to too much product. If you think about it, cleansers are meant to be diluted, so if it isn’t diluted enough, it won’t work properly.

Take your time. Spread the suds onto each section of your face including your neck and chest. The neck and chest are often neglected, but also experience breakouts and aging, so including them in your routine is crucial. Thorougly and gently massage the cleanser into your chest, neck and face paying special attention to problem areas. You should spend a couple minutes massaging your cleanser into your skin. Work slowly up your neck and make small upward circles around your jawline (all the way back to your ears), chin, around your mouth and close to the lipline. Work into entire cheek area and gently around the orbital bone with your ring finger. Scrub well all around the nose and into the folds around the nostrils and the tip. Massage gently. You don’t need to apply too much pressure. Once you’ve worked your way up to your temples and done your brows, forehead, and hairline, rinse the cleanser off well. Remember, your skin should not be squeaky clean. If it is, immediately change your cleanser because it is drying the daylights out of your skin.

Finally, repeat the whole process. Yes, washing your face twice ensures properly and thoroughly cleansed skin. The Dermal Institute (the creators of Dermalogica) teaches all of their skin therapists to wash their clients twice, and encourages all of THEM to wash twice at home as well. This ensures that all of your makeup, dirt, and impurities collected by your skin throughout the day are washed away. If you lather correctly, don’t use too much cleanser, and add enough water, this should never dry out your skin. If it does, you are not using the right cleanser for your skin.

Once you blot the moisture off of your skin, follow with your favorite serum, moisturizer, and of course sunscreen (if it’s morning).

Some of this might challenge what you were already doing. I understand. When I first learned this (not that long ago while taking courses at The Dermal Institute) it challenged how I had been washing my face too. However, when I started adopting these methods, my skin improved dramatically. You will be giving your skin that same thorough cleansing that you get when you see your favorite esthetician for a facial. Along with once-weekly exfoliation and proper moisturizing, your skin will be thanking you.

If you need suggestions for great cleansers, I love Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel and Ole Henriksen On The Go Cleanser, and neither one ever dries me out. I used the Dermalogica all through my training there, and I have Ole Henriksen in my shower right now. They’re both fabulous.

image: Pureology

Christmas is coming in May, because Pureology’s coming out with something that excites me to no end. Since running out of my Agadir Argan Oil, it’s been a bit of a struggle with my hair. However, the smell of the Agadir gave me such a headache, and I just wasn’t sure if the shiny and manageable hair was worth the pain. So upon reading about Pureology’s Precious Oil, my hope for amazing hair days once again returned. Releasing in salons in May, I’ll be rushing to get my hands on a bottle (or two). For more information on this new wonder oil that claims shine, elasticity, protection and softness, head over to Elle to read all about it. It’s healthy, certified green, and I can’t wait to try it!

BB creams are nothing new to the Asian skin care market, but they are new to the United States. Invented in the 50s, picked up by Koreans in the 80s, and brought to us in the last couple of years, it’s hard to believe these wonder creams haven’t been in our makeup bags all along. A BB cream, or as many call it, beauty balm, combines sunscreen, moisturizer, skin smoothing, anti-aging, and foundation into one incredibly simple-to-use product. There are tons of different brands out there, and finding the right formula can seem daunting, so I took a trip to Sephora and Rite Aid to help narrow down your search. Kathryn, at Sephora Arden Fair, filled up samples of every BB cream they had! I tried not one, but NINE BB creams, wore them over several days, tested them in different climates and elevations, and examined texture, longevity, and oiliness. After throwing all of these BB creams at my face over the last few weeks, the one thing they all seem to have in common is helping my skin look better than ever!

Dr. Jart Premium SPF 45 PA +++ was my first adventure into the world of BB creams. The texture is surprising, and has more of a primer feel to it without the silicone texture. It’s almost like a creamy gel. The coverage is light, but can be built to medium in a couple layers. The high level of protection from the sun is a real selling point for a person with fair skin like me. I also enjoyed a cooling sensation as it absorbed into my skin. The sunscreen is invisible in terms of causing that annoying film on the face, which really made me fall in love with this one. I was pretty sad when my sample ran out, and think this one might be the one I purchase in full size. It comes in just one color, which is a downside for those golden goddesses, but would blend into fair to medium skin tones. I absolutely loved this product. I wear SPF 45 daily (Elta MD), and switching to this product would not be a compromise on that level. With a formula best suited for combination or slightly dry skin, it smoothes and protects like a dream. Even after a day in the sun at an elevation of over 6500 feet, my skin remained unburned, fresh, and glowing. Dr. Jart definitely sets the bar high.

Dr. Jart Waterfuse SPF 25 PA+++ boasts being made with 50% water, and contains hyaluronic acid which helps bind that water to the skin. This is great for dehydrated skin as well as irritated, red skin because of it’s soothing botanicals such as aloe. It also comes in just one color, same as it’s anti-aging relative, but had a similar ability to blend even into medium skin tones and build coverage with layering. The lower SPF does not thrill me. I like at least a protection level of 30, but I am also neurotic about protecting my milky-white complexion. If you are using SPF 15, it would be an upgrade for you, which I will definitely cheer for, but I prefer its higher protection cousin. Overall, however, the Dr. Jart line of BB creams really left an impression on me. I will definitely be trying other Dr. Jart products in the future.

Josie Maren Tinted Moisturizer technically isn’t a BB cream, but I grabbed a sample of it anyway. The reason being that with the argan oil present in all of Maren’s product, it contains tons of antioxidants as well as a sunscreen factor (SPF 30). While it doesn’t have the texture of the other BB creams, it does have many of the benefits, and for someone looking for a little more coverage and moisture, it would be a great alternative. The coverage is significantly higher than almost all of the other BB creams, and with the argan oil, it offers a lot of moisture for people lacking oil in their skin. While it was way too heavy for my combination skin, if you have dry skin, and find that many other sunscreens and tinted moisturizers do not give you the moisture you need, you should give this one a shot. It comes in five shades from fair to tan skin tones and has a really lovely, rich texture.

Clinique BB cream boasts SPF 30 and enough coverage to make anyone’s skin looks flawless. It also claims to be the perfect primer. I was pleasantly surprised by the texture, but I think wearing anything over it would be too heavy. It has enough coverage on its own to take the place of a foundation, and with just two layers, has a healthy medium coverage. While it kept me matte all day without drying me, I did feel like it settled into my fine lines a bit. It was really easy to blend that in without rubbing it off, but having to worry about that throughout the day would lead me away from it. This leads me to believe that it would be better suited for drier skin types, or need a good set with powder. This formula comes in 3 different shades, but because of its better coverage, those who have skin that doesn’t fall within their palette may not have as easy of a time blending this brand into their skin.

Smashbox has a very unique texture, and has five shades with the darkest option of any of the other BB creams. This would be a great option for my darker complexioned beauties. When worn under makeup, it claims to enhance the length of wear to eight hours. With its very thick feel, and filmy texture, I am not sure I would want to wear foundation over this unless I was prepping for a photo shoot or doing bridal or special event makeup. Smashbox is typically known for their photo shoot, makeup artist-friendly makeup, so this is of no surprise. It claims to inhibit oil, so if you have oily skin, and battle shine, this claims to help. That filmy texture did go away after a while, and my skin was matte all day.

Too Faced Tinted Beauty Balm SPF 20 has a great texture. It still has all of the same claims as the others, offering oil-free moisturizing, while offering ingredients that protect, prevent, and smooth. What this formula offers that the others don’t is a bit of shimmer that blends really nicely into the skin. When applied, it does not look glittery, but instead offers a glow that I found to be quite flattering. Since I have combination skin with a tendency toward dehydration, a bit of glow does not bother me; however, if you have oily skin, products with shimmer are not going to work well. That shimmer can make the skin look shiny if there is too much oil present. I also wore this out for the day up in Denver and got a bit of a burn. I didn’t spend too much time in direct sunlight, so the SPF 20 was not enough for me. I was in a car most of the time, so this slight burn was a surprise. If you are at elevation, you should definitely wear a higher SPF underneath this, and not use it as your primary sunscreen, especially if you are as white as the moon like myself!

Dior Hydra Life BB Creme SPF 30 was my most disappointing BB cream out of the bunch. While the texture seemed dry, which could be good for my oilier readers, the smell really turned me off. It was very strong and the smell did not wear off. Also, it only comes in one color, which was far too dark for me, so I unfortunately could not wear it on my face out of the house. It does blend nicely, and the texture feels much more like a foundation. While the other formulas had creamy, gel-like textures, this one is runnier and thinner. Despite the thinner texture, it has better coverage than most of the others and created a matte appearance on my skin immediately. For someone with medium skin tone, and without sensitivity to the smell, this would be a great product. While the other brands with only one color are on the lighter side, this one caters to a slightly darker complexion.

Boscia BB Cream SPF 27 PA++ was similar in texture to Dr. Jart at first, but seemed a bit more matte after a little time to absorb. This formula claims to repair the skin as well as offer protection, hydration and soothing properties. Boscia’s BB cream had a orangey tint to it, which did not compliment my pink-based skin tone, but could look nice on someone with more of a tan. This one left a filmy feel on my skin that did not seem to go away over time. It also has a shimmer to it that didn’t blend as well as the Too Faced shimmer. I could see how this might be better for drier skin because of the added shimmer and slight heaviness of the formula. While this formula does not work for me, if you feel like you have dry skin, it might be good for you. Get a sample, and see how you like it.

Garnier Miracle Skin Protector BB Cream, which I picked up at Rite-Aid, really surprised me. The texture rivals Dr. Jart, and the color matched me perfectly. There are only two colors available, so once again, my darker skinned lovelies are going to have to look elsewhere. This one is also very dewy on the skin and takes a while to soak in. After about twenty minutes, the greasy look had gone, and I was left with even skin that felt moisturized and plump. However, Garnier only offers SPF 15, which is outdated. SPF 15 simply isn’t high enough to offer any real protection from the sun, especially when I was day-tripping to Vail. A very short walk outside, and I had a burn on my forehead. Though a minor burn, this tells me that I will have to wear my Elta MD sunscreen under it if I plan on spending any more than twenty minutes in the sun. I also hold the opinion that SPF 30 is about as low a sun protection as anyone should go. However, if you would rather not spend ten to twenty dollars more on a department store brand, the Garnier (with sunscreen underneath) is an absolutely fabulous product.

After a few weeks of testing out these BB creams, I really fell in love. I am not a fan of wearing too much foundation on the skin, so these creams are a fantastic compromise. They blend well, even the skin, and really do seem to improve texture with use. After all is said and done, Dr. Jart’s SPF 45 is the one I will be adding to my makeup bag (along with the Garnier I had to buy for lack of samples). However, while some of these formulas did not work for my skin, they might work for yours. Most of them make the same claims, so pay attention to your skin type, and see which one you like the most. Like I said before, Kathryn at Sephora gave me a generous sample of every BB cream they had, so don’t be afraid to ask for a couple before you commit. There are also others I have yet to try such as Stila, MAC, Prestige, Estee Lauder, etc. I really do encourage my readers to give BB creams a try. I can’t sing their praises enough, even for just the simple reason that it will get you all wearing sunscreen every day!